R1 Screed Heating
R1 Screed Heating is a method of slab heating that provides an R1 insulation board between the main slab and topping slab.
R1 Screed heating is a more efficient and responsive method of in floor heating. Like slab heating, in screed heating turns your whole floor into a radiant heater producing that amazingly comfortable warm home that hydronic floor heating is known for but with far more efficiency and control.
What is In Screed Heating
Screed heating is when the pipes that carry the heated water are laid within our insulated pipe positioning board on top of the slab. The pipes and board are then covered with a 70mm thick concrete screed. Our multi-layered specialist pvc pipes are 16mm Uponor Pex Pipe, made in Germany. The pipe is held 200mm apart in a snake like fashion within the pipe positioning board. When in operation the floor heating thermostat will call for hot water from the boiler. A hydronic heating boiler will heat the water and pump it through the pipe at 50°C transferring its heat into the concrete screed, this heat then radiates through the home similar to how a brick wall radiates heat after the sun goes down on a summers day.
Recommended Floor Coverings
The most suitable floor finishes for in slab heating are polished concrete, engineered board or tiles. This is because they are all great conductors of the heat energy created from the hot water in the hydronic heating system. We do not recommend natural timbers or glued flooring as the heat from the heated slab can effects them.
How long does it take to heat?
It takes around 6 hours for in screed hydronic heating to warm your home. Because the response time is quite fast when compared to slab heating, you can manage your temperature and energy use more efficiently by lowering temperatures over night, or turning the system off completely if you are going away for a short time. A more affordable floor heating option is in slab heating.
How is it Installed?
In screed hydronic heating is installed on top of the structural slab and includes a pipe positioning insulation board. Like in slab heating all walls and cabinetry need to be marked out prior to installation and the concrete pour should happen the day after installation to prevent any form of damage by weather or people.
- 20mm – Board Thickness
- 18mm – Positioning Knob Height
- 16mm – Pipe Thickness
- 70mm – Screed Thickness on Top of Board
- 90mm – Additional Height on top of Structural Slab
- 32MPa – Minimum Concrete Strength
- SL82 – Recommended Mesh in Screed
Framing should have a triple base plate or 2 extra noggin’s on the baseplate to act as formwork for the additional depth of our boards and the concrete that is poured on top which is a total of .
We then place our pipe positioning boards in between all framework and cabinetry markings on top of the slab in the rooms that are to be heated. We then run our pipework through the boards in circuits of 100m in length covering 20 sqm each.
What does In Screed Heating Cost
When budgeting for screed heating there are two aspects to take into consideration.
- The Hydronic Heating Component – by us dPP Hydronics
- The Concrete & Finishing Component – by Policrete (our preferred supplier)
A rough guide when calculating the cost of the hydronic heating, the concrete and the polishing is $210 per square metre for a modest finish. Options such as the quality of the concrete and the level of finishing to the concrete surface will increase this square meter rate. There are also minimum job figures as well as other considerations.
For an accurate price send in your plans using the form at the bottom of the page.
Can it leak inside the concrete?
No. The pipe in the screed is encased in concrete, which acts as an extremely effective protection from puncture. A 2013 study has also shown that PVC pipe is expected to last in excess of 100 years. The pipe is run in continuous circuits back to the manifold that is outside of the slab which means there are no connections within the concrete. Once the pipe is laid our technician will pressurise it to 10 bar to check for any leaks and to make a puncture during concrete pouring highly visible so that if it should be punctured it will be replaced. The operating pressure is only 1 bar, so we are testing the pipe at 10 times its running pressure.
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